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Paco Rabanne

Calandre

1969FloralEDTFrance

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Editorial notes

  1. 01

    A metallic aldehydic floral that pioneered the cold, machine-edged style Rabanne also explored in his metal-disc couture of the same period.

  2. 02

    The aldehyde-rose-hyacinth structure would later influence Chanel No. 19 two years on, and Calvin Klein Truth two decades after that.

  3. 03

    Named after the French word for an automobile's radiator grille, framing the fragrance as the olfactive equivalent of mid-century chrome.

  4. 04

    Composed by Michel Hy in 1969 in a brushed-aluminium flacon by Pierre Dinand, the industrial machine aesthetic deliberately at odds with the era's gilded perfumery.

Dossier

Edition · 000

Status · Active.

A metallic aldehydic floral.

Composed by
Michel Hy
Bottle by
Pierre Dinand
Founder
Francisco 'Paco' Rabaneda Cuervo
Country
France

The pyramid

Top
aldehydesgreen notesbergamot
Heart
roselily-of-the-valleyorrishyacinthgeraniumjasmine
Base
oakmossvetivermusksandalwoodamber

The brief

Conceived as the olfactive equivalent of Rabanne's metal-and-plastic couture: cold, modern, machine-edged.

Name'Calandre' — French for the radiator grille of an automobile, evoking the mid-century chrome aesthetic Rabanne also explored in his metal-disc couture.

Why it mattered

  • Pioneered the 'metallic floral' style with an aldehyde-rose-hyacinth structure that influenced later Chanel No. 19 (1971) and Calvin Klein Truth.

The flacon

Brushed-aluminium cylindrical flacon with a rectangular metal-strip label, an industrial machine aesthetic for the era.

The Curator's Note

Smelled of chrome before chrome was a fragrance category.

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