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Issey Miyake

L'Eau d'Issey

1992FreshEDTJapan

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Editorial notes

  1. 01

    An aquatic floral that co-defined the 1990s aquatic genre alongside Calvin Klein Escape and Acqua di Giò, popularising the calone molecule as a marine signature.

  2. 02

    Issey Miyake briefed Jacques Cavallier to capture 'the scent of water on the skin', a then-radical conceptual brief that produced the genre's reference point.

  3. 03

    Presented in a tall conical flacon topped with a small chrome sphere, designed by Fabien Baron after the moon rising over Notre-Dame seen from Miyake's Paris hotel.

  4. 04

    Composed by Jacques Cavallier in 1992 around lotus and freesia over a white lily-fern heart, with a white musk-amber base.

Dossier

Edition · 000

Status · Active. Genre-defining.

An aquatic floral with calone and lotus.

Composed by
Jacques Cavallier
Bottle by
Fabien Baron
Founder
Issey Miyake
Country
Japan

The pyramid

Top
lotusfreesiacyclamencalonerose watermelon
Heart
white lilypeonycarnationfern
Base
white muskambercedarsandalwoodosmanthus

The brief

Issey Miyake briefed Cavallier to capture 'the scent of water on the skin'. The composition was one of the earliest mainstream uses of the marine molecule calone.

Name'L'Eau d'Issey' — 'The Water of Issey' in French, also a pun on 'odyssey'.

Why it mattered

  • Co-defined the 1990s aquatic-floral genre alongside Calvin Klein Escape and Acqua di Giò, popularising calone as a marine signature.

The flacon

Tall conical flacon topped with a small chrome sphere, inspired by the moon rising over Notre-Dame as seen from Miyake's Paris hotel window.

Footnotes

  • Maureen Doherty co-developed the brief; the men's flanker L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme launched in 1994.

The Curator's Note

The fragrance that taught a generation that water has a smell.

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