Dossier
Edition · 000Status · Active. Reformulated 2011.
An oriental vanilla.◐ Reformulated since launch
- Composed by
- Jacques Guerlain
- Bottle by
- Raymond Guerlain
- Founder
- Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain
- Country
- France
The pyramid
- Top
- bergamotlemonmandarin orange
- Heart
- irisjasminerose
- Base
- vanillatonka beanopoponaxincense
The brief
Jacques Guerlain created the scent after pouring a large quantity of synthetic ethylvanillin into a bottle of the house's existing fragrance Jicky.
NameNamed after the Shalimar Gardens in Lahore, built by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan whose love for his wife Mumtaz Mahal inspired the fragrance.
Why it mattered
- One of the earliest fragrances to use a heavy overdose of synthetic ethylvanillin, defining the modern oriental category.
The flacon
Baccarat crystal flacon shaped like an Eastern garden basin, with a sapphire-blue fan-shaped stopper; awarded a prize at the 1925 Decorative Arts Exhibition in Paris.
Reformulated
The 2011 Eau de Parfum reformulation by Thierry Wasser sharpened the bergamot and toned down the vanillin density of the older juice. The original 1925 formula survives only at the Osmothèque.
Cause · IFRA restrictions on natural musks and bergamot, plus a 2011 redesign
Footnotes
- Originally formulated in 1921 and presented at the 1925 Decorative Arts Exhibition in Paris.
- The original 1925 formulation is preserved at the Osmothèque fragrance archive in Versailles.
The Curator's Note
Invented the modern oriental by accident, then claimed it on purpose.
