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Caron

Tabac Blond

1919ChypreParfumFrance

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Editorial notes

  1. 01

    The first widely-distributed feminine leather, composed for the new generation of women who had bobbed their hair, taken up cigarettes and refused the floral tradition.

  2. 02

    Pale Virginia tobacco was the cultural reference. The formula tempers the smoky-leather facet with carnation and powdery iris, holding the smoke at chest height instead of letting it fill the room.

  3. 03

    Opened the cuir feminine genre that Bandit, Cabochard and Jolie Madame would later extend. Daltroff's three career-defining works are this one, Nuit de Noël, and the 1934 Pour un Homme.

  4. 04

    Composed by Ernest Daltroff in 1919 for the maison he had founded six years earlier. The current formula is a heritage reissue; vintage parfum bottles trade for real money on the resale market.

Dossier

Edition · 000

Status · Active. Heritage reissue.

A powdery blond tobacco leather.

Composed by
Ernest Daltroff
Founder
Ernest Daltroff
Country
France

The pyramid

Top
leathercarnationlime blossom
Heart
iriscarnationylang-ylangvetiver
Base
cedarpatchoulivanillaambergrismusk

The brief

Daltroff composed it for the new generation of women who had taken up smoking and bobbed their hair in the wake of WWI — the first deliberately 'masculine' fragrance positioned for a female wearer.

Name'Tabac Blond' — 'Blond Tobacco', evoking the pale Virginia tobacco of the era's elegant women smokers.

Why it mattered

  • The earliest 'tobacco' fragrance in commercial perfumery, and one of the first feminines to lean openly into a smoky-leather register previously reserved for masculines.

Footnotes

  • Caron's Tabac Blond pioneered the entire 'cuir' (leather) feminine genre that Bandit, Cabochard and Jolie Madame later extended.

The Curator's Note

Smelled like the future in 1919 and now smells like a perfectly maintained past.

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